Four Pagodas in Saigon

The grounds of Vietnam Quoc Tu Pagoda are a peaceful retreat from the buzz of the city. At two o'clock in the afternoon, a monk in saffron robes leads a congregation of mostly women, dressed in humble gray ao dai which resemble traditional lay robes in China. Their chanting is very beautiful, distinctly Vietnamese in melody and inflection, and is accompanied by traditional Chinese Buddhist bells of various sizes and timbres. The temple itself is not particularly beautiful, with lots of overly bright painted images and colored tiles but little older religious art. Yet the practice of those participating demonstrates sincerity and faith. The posture of the sangha is very clear and upright, and the lay worshippers bow with precision and dignity.

The temple is a real community center, with little kids and elderly alike just hanging out on the premises, seeking refuge from the midday heat in the shade of its trees. And those chanting parked their motorbikes only a few meters from where they now stand barefoot, with hands in prayer. The horns of the street traffic are wholly mixed with the beautiful sounds of the chanting. A layman, meditating with his prayer beads, eyes closed in concentration, invited the large hanging bell to sound at regular intervals.

When the weather is this hot and humid, thinking comes a little slower and it is easier to relax. There are so many new smells here. Even the incense is different, and in already polluted air is takes on new dimensions. Humid, warm air itself feels a certain way in the nostrils.

This morning I visited three other temples, each of which had a distinct character. The second temple I visited seemed deserted at first, as I could hear loud chanting but couldn't tell where it was coming from. I walked towards the rear of the compound and a woman directed me upstairs to where a group of about twenty monks and fifty laypeople were chanting in a large, open-sided hall. I went to the back and sat down next to a young man who shared his chanting book with me. I was eventually able to follow along in the Vietnamese text, but I didn't dare actuallt chant!

It was a beautiful temple, almost French in style, but with many Sino-Vietnamese elements as well. Although Buddhism came to Vietnam mostly from China, the chanting style is markedly different, and of course even the Buddhist mantras (sacred syllables) are pronouced differently (nam mo a mhi pa phat). Occasionally a particular mantra in the chanting will remind of something I've heard in Chinese, but the similarity ends there. It is so refreshing to be in a new Buddhist culture!

At the last temple I visited (the third temple actually was deserted, unlike the second), which was decidedly Chinese in style (it was built by ethnic Chinese), I went to the back of the main hall where I heard some chanting. I was unsure of the occasion, but the familial bonds between those attending made it seem like a memorial observance. I didn't intend to crash a funeral! But I met another young man there, in his late twenties, by the name of Dui. He spoke excellent English and we discussed meditation practice at length. Hen graciously showed me downstairs and explained a series of pieces of Vietnamese Chien (Zen) calligraphy. It was really wonderful to meet someone who shared such interest and experience in the Buddhadharma from another country. A practicioner of Pure Land Buddhism, he also clearly understand the connections between the various Buddhist schools, especially Chien. And despite our different cultural backgrounds, we were able to communicate in the language of Mahayana Buddhism and when it came time to part, it came naturally to use the universal Buddhist gesture (gassho in Japanese), bow to one another and say "Na Mo Amitabha Buddha," which replaces "Hello," "Goodbye," "Thank you," and "You're welcome" in Buddhist community life.

At all of the temples I visited, after the service ended, a relaxed atmosphere pervaded the pagoda, and everyone takes time to chat with one another or ask questions of the sangha. Another thing that struck me at the places I visited was that I saw barely any tourists, unlike other parts of town. I only wish I could stay longer in Vietnam and learn and experience more of its fascinating and endearing Buddhist tradtion.